Shoe making



F. C. CLOSE Aug. 29, 1933.

SHOE MAKING Filed Feb. 17, 1931 3 Sheets-Shget I l um m F510 (7 70.96 83 111 GHQ m Aug. 29, 1933. c. CLOSE 1,924,835

SHOE MAKING I Filed Feb. 17, 1931 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 HHHHIIIH HHIIIIHHHI IIHIHI 2g 3 1 51 77 E Hi! W 7 7 IIIIHIIIHIIH'H "rig" w m! E] wuemtoz 47 I M W" Aug. 29, 1933- c CLOSE 1,924,835

SHOE MAKING Filed Feb. 17. 1931 3 Sheets-Sheet, 3

wuewioz 70111 6. Close 351 a r tom;

Patented Aug. 29, 1933 sHoE MAKING Ford 0. Close, New York, N. Y.

Application February 1'7, 1931. Serial No. 516,344

5 Claims;

This invention relates to shoes and shoemaking, and more particularly aims to provide a novel and valuable method of practicably and economically producing a shoe heel, as even the so-called French heel of a womans boot or shoe, which is apparently but not actually built up of a plurality of leather lifts; the invention also providing, as new article of manufacture, the product resulting from said method.

Another object is to provide, as an ancillary feature of the method aforesaid, a novel and valuable method of practicably and economically producing a cover for a shoe-heel of wood, composition or other material or construction designed to give a cheap substitute for an actual leatherdift heel, which cover may be readily applied to the rotund surface or surfaces of the wooden or similar heel-foundation and secured thereover to provide a visible and long enduring surface for the foundation-heel which displays a simulation of the corresponding surface of an actual leather-lift heel; the invention also providing, as a new article of manufacture, the shoe-heel cover just described. 7

The invention will be more clearly understood, and the foregoing and various other objects and advantages thereof will be more fully appreciated, from the following description when taken in connection with the accompanying drawings illustrating, solely by way of example however, the new shoe heel and the new shoeheel cover as now preferred to be made, and also illustrating, likewise solely by way of example however, various method steps as now preferred or recommended.

in these drawings: I

Fig. l is a side elevation of an actual leatherlift heel as it might be constructed, this heel being shown as a so-called French heel for womens shoes.

2 is a perspective view of a similar heel but one of wood or the like (already familiar in the art for use in building shoes of the cheaper type), but marked with lines corresponding to the lift-separation lines of Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is a partially diagrammatic, but primarily represents a plane development of the rotuncl surfaces of the heels of Figs. 1 and 2, with the lift-separation lines just-mentioned similarly developed.

Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 2, but here the wooden or like heel has been given, instead of surface markings, grooves corresponding to the lift-separation lines of Fig. 1.

Fig. 5 is a perspective View, illustrating the heel of Fig. 2 (for example) equipped with cover pursuant to the invention, such cover carrying a similitude of the development of Fig. 3, and having been, before its application to the foundation heel selected, cut and folded as indi- 60 cated by the dot-and-dash lines of Fig. 3.

Fig. 6 is an elevational view of a block or sheet of sole or lift leather, shaped to a cross-section such that when said block or sheet is'bent to the proper curvature substantially perpendicular to 65 Fig. '7 is a similar View of a similar block or 7 sheet, and similarly cross-sectionally shaped in regard to the sixth lift from the top in Fig. 3.

Fig. 8 illustrates an intermediate step which may conveniently be employed in. connection with the block or sheet of Fig. 7, to assist in shaping the same finally as in Fig. 7.

Fig. 9, in side elevation, shows a hand-press or vise which may conveniently be employed in connection with the different lifts shown in plane development inFig. 3, to bend the same to the required curvatures substantially perpendicular to their own planes.

Fig. 10 shows the parts of'Fig. 9 in end e1evation.

Fig. 11 is a perspective View, showing a strip cut (as between the dotted lines at the left in Fig. 10) off an end portion of a lift (say the lift of Fig. 7) while held to its appointed bend by say the press of Figs. 9 and 10.

Fig. 12 illustrates one typeof power press which, if desired, may be'employed in connection with or in substitution for the vise of Figs 9 and 10 or an equivalent. 7

Fig. 13 is aview similar to Fig. 9, but showing a modified form of vise which may be employed to assist in carrying out the invention according to a modified method.

Fig. 14 shows the parts of Fig. 13 rearranged, on tightly clamping the vise or press, to reproduce, within the space partially defined by the dot-and-dash lines, the plane development of Fig. 3.

Fig. 15 is a side elevational view, showing one practicable manner of assembling a heel, equipped with a cover pursuant to the invention, with other parts of a shoe.

Similar reference characters refer to similar parts throughout the several views of the drawings.

Referring first to Figs. 1 to 5, there will first be described some of the preferred ways of obtaining the plane development of Fig. 3; since, according to the invention it is preferred to ob tain this development (of the outlines of the exposed edges of the lifts as they follow the rotundity of the shoe heel of Fig. l) as a preliminary or assisting ste, obtaining the complete development of such lifts, that is, of the liftseparation lines and also of the grainings and/ or colorings (as in a leather-lift heel) and/or shadings (as in a black leather-lift heel) of said edges.

For instance, either .vorking from the actual heel of 1, or from the general knowledge or recollection of the shoemaker or other worker f the method, the ration lines of the various 1ifts,as the lines 20 between the lifts 21 of the heel 22 of l reproduced or substantially reproduced b marking ines as at 20 over the heel 22 f Fig. 2. Then, as by applying a flexible measuring tape or a flexible steel rule (not shown) closely and carefully against the various lines 20', the lengths of the plane developments of these lines may be readily noted; and in the same way there be obtained the data as to the widths of such of the lifts as are of constant wic th from en" to end. To obtain the required rates of taper those lifts which beyond their median portions gradually reduce in width, a convenient method would be to mark the lifts off, over their lengths around the heel 22 of Fig. 2, say every eighth or quarter inch, and measure and note the varying distances of separation of adjoining lifts at each of these points. All the measurements and data just referred to may, if desired, betaken off an actual leather-lift heel, the heel 22 of Fig. l; but even where such el is being employed, it may prove desirable to work from the same and also from say the wooden heel of Fig. as the latter is commonly smoo'h and white, and hence marked not only easily it in such manner that clear and thus facilithe markings will be very tative of accurate an w c ing paragraph, a plan each of the various y be laid down as shown in full lir s ll i-lg. 3; the vertical centerline in Fig. 3, marked 23, corresponding to the line of intersection between the rear rotundity of the heel and a vertical plane perpendicular to the plane of the breast 22:; of the heel and passing through said midway b tween the sides of the latter. Thus, by the aid of data taken at and relative to se d line of inte section, and employed in connection with said ce *er-iine 23, the plane developments the individual lifts may easily be so arrang as to result in the plane development of ..e entire cover. Since it is desirable that cover, say the cover 25 of which is to carry reproduction or substantial reproduction of deve 2e and which is to be secured to a foundation heel, say the heel 22" of Fig. 5, be secured to heel not only by having top and bottom marginal portions of the cover crimped over the top and bottom of the heel but also by having side portions crimped over the breast of the heel nd other side portions crimped under the top forward extension of the heel which projects beyond the breast, and since it is preferable to have the lift markings on the heel cover continue over these criinped-over parts of the cover to avoid any chance that any rotundity of the heel will not be fully covered by said lift markings, the heel cover as shown in above-described of the many possible 5, and the lift development as shown in Fig. 3, are illustrated as provided, although not necessarily needing to be so provided, with lift markings all over. Referring to 5, a top marginal crimping of such cover over the top of the heel is shown at 5a (and indicated at 25a in 2) a bottom marginal crinping of such cover over the bottom of the heel is shown at 25b; side-portion crimpings of such cover over the breast of the heel are shown at 25c, and other side-portion crimpings of such cover under the forward upper projecting part of the heel are shown at 25d. Now comparing Fig. 3, such a crirnped over part 25a would be located above the dot-and-dash line 25A; such crirn'ped over part 2522 would be located below the dot-and-dash line 253; such crimpings 250 would be located between the dotand-diash lines 250 and 2501), such crimpings 25d would be located between the dot-anddash lines 2509 and 25D,according to this arrangeznent the lines 256D being slitted, the lines 25 being trim ines for discarding the substantially triangular portions therebeyond, and the aforesaid lines 25A, 25B and 25S also the dot-and-dash lines being fold lines.

It will be seen then that, according to that one ways in which a cover of the resent in ntion may be applied to a foundatio heel, the ft-outline representations of 3 are i 1 'oduced on the cover, and by their outer or bounding substantially define the bounding lines of the cover. It will however be understood, from what has already been explained that the only of the showing of Fig. 3 which represents a plane development of the rotundity of the heel is that part thereof lying between the fold lines 25B, 25C and 25E. This lunch of Fig. 3 is first mar :ec off on a sheet of cardboard or othe' substantially uniplanar surface; and then, from measurements of the heel breast, the l cations and inc tions of he lines are cal and laid down on said surface; aft-r whic the various lift-separa tion lines are sinootl y pro]. nged at opposite ends to extend to said lines 2 F. This provides for the crimpings 25c and As to the cr lip ings 250; and 25b, these may easily be provided for by inscribing additional lift-separation lines at top and bottom of the true plane development, as for instance indicated in Fig. 3 at 22y and As to the positioning of the l is 25GB and 25D, these may be calculated; but, perhaps use of. Here, the wooden or similar foundation heel 22 of Fig. 2 is marked with liftseparation lines around its rotir ty, but these markings 20" are grooves cut into the material of the foundation heel. A thin sheet of some freely flexible but relatively non-stretchable material, as leather, may then be smoothed tightly over the rotundity of the foundation heel, and crimped over the top and bottom of the heel and there trimmed to prev top and bottom portions substantially as at 25c and 251) as aforesaid, and crimped over the heel breast and under the upper forwardly projecting part of the heel and there trimmed to provide side portions substantially as at c and 25d as aforesaid. This leather covering may in any suitable manner be temporarily secured in place on the foundation heel as by gluing the same to the heel at said portions 25a, 25b, 25c and 25d. Next, a pointed tool may be drawn around the heel rotundity and along the length of each of the grooves 2o", distinctly to score such covering in agreement with the lengths and the relative inclinations of said grooves. If de sired, the various crease lines (corresponding to 25A 25B, 25C and 253 in Fig. 3) may be similarly scored, and by the use of such tool. Said covering, on removal from the foundation heel, may then be spread to uniplanar condition, thus to display the pattern of Fig. 3 in all its details, once the lift-separation lines are smoothly prolonged beyond the fold lines 25E and the line 20:0 is added as hereinabove explained (the lines 20y and 20.2 resulting from the trimming operations at the top and bottom surfaces of the heel). 7

As to this pattern or representation of Fig. 3, however the same be obtained according to the general principles of the invention (either as hereinabove described or otherwise), said pattern or representation is desirably reproduced at least once, as by tracing,-and this before adding thereto any details of graining or color or shading-so as to preserve a record of the dot-and-dashlines thereon. Such tracing is laid aside for use later as a guide to insure proper slitting and trimming of the cover preparatory to mounting the latter on the type of foundation heel for which it was designed.

Preferably by the aid of a pattern or representation pursuant to Fig. 3, there may be developed over the same, or over another plane area corresponding thereto, similitudes of the characteristics of t-.e various lifts as finally finished (for instance, as smooth d and buffed) around an actual leather-lift heel; these similitudes being arranged in edge to edge relation thereby to develop over said representation orsaid corresponding area a similitude of a rotund area of said actual heel which will constitute a plane development thereof. These firstmentioned similitudes, as to the grainings and/ or colorings and/or shadings making them such, may be obtained by any suitable method, as by the hand and eye of an artist. Such similitudes, therefore, may exist in suchform as merely to suggest the characteristic grainings and/or colorings and/or shadings of the actual lifts. Said first-mentioned siinilitudes, however, preferably are obtained by providing pieces of actual leather of substantially the same outlines as the arched subdivisions of the pattern of Fig. 3 which lie between the lift-separation lines thereon, and matching and securing these pieces in place so that they combine to reproduce the pattern of Fig. 3 and the lift-separation lines of the latter and also a leather appearance all over the pattern. Most desirably, each of these pieces is out from a leather sheet substantially in the plane of the thickness thereof; and then said pieces, when assembled to make up said pattern, are exposed at their thus cut surfaces so that each piece will display the cross-sectional grain ofthe leather substantially as it is exposed by an actual leather lift as the latter runs around the'rotundity of an actual leather-lift heel.

One convenient manner of obtaining and employing actual leather pieces as last above indicated, is to proceed as follows:

Referring also now to Figs. 6 to 12, each lift development of Fig. 3 may be measured, as by a flexible tape,xto obtain, in termsof a straight line, its arched length across the pattern of Fig. 3. Then, as to each of such lift developments, a block or sheet of actual sole or lift leather may be cut to a width corresponding to such straightline length; as shown, for instance, in Figs. 6 and 7, the block or sheet of the former view having a width (across the drawings) corresponding to the straight-line length of the lowermost lift in Fig. 3, and the block or sheet-of the latter view having a width corresponding to the straight-line length of the sixth lift from the top in Fig. 3. It will be noted that a number of the lower lift developments in Fig. 3 are of substantially uniform width (up and down on the drawings) from end to end; hence, as shown in Fig. 6, the leather sheets to be shaped and bent to a cross-sectional area corresponding to these lift developments, may be of uniform thickness from end to end, before bending. However, other and higher-up lift developments in Fig. 3 taper toward opposite ends from their median portions. Therefore, the leather sheets to be shaped and bent to a crosssectional area corresponding to these lift developments, are desirably similarly tapered. Note Fig. '7. To assist in the skiving, grinding or other shaping operation employed to establish the tapers just referred to in the case of the leather sheet being shaped to correspond to any one of these upper lift developments in Fig. 3, such leather sheet may first, as in Fig. 8, be cut merely to give the same a width corresponding to the straight-line length of the lift development to which it is to conform, and a thickness equal to the maximum or central width of said lift development. Then, by taking width measurements at say every quarter inch along the length of said lift development, corresponding points, asindicated at 26 in Fig. 8, may be marked on the end face of the leather sheet; and these points may be used as guides for the skiving operation aforesaid, to transform the cross-sectional shape of said sheet from that shown in Fig. 8 to that shown in Fig. 7. Assuming a different leather sheet is employed for providing thickness-exposures of each of the different lift developments to correspond in straight-line length and rate of taper with the lift developments of Fig. 3, a number of such leather sheets equalling the number of such lift developments may be thus shaped before proceeding to bend any one of the sheets to a curvature corresponding to the curvatures of the lift developments. The bending of each shaped leather sheetmay be accomplished in any desired Way, by hand, or by a press such as shown in Figs. 9 and 10 or in Fig. 12 or otherwise. As many presses of type shown in Figs. 9 and 10, if such type of press be employed, are desirably provided, as there are different lift developments in Fig. 3; this because the male and female shaping members 27 and 28 would be differently contoured for each of the different leather sheets to be bent therebetween. In the case illustrated, these shaping members (one secured on a frame-member 29 and the other secured on a frame-member 30, these members drawable together by turning wing-nuts 31 on tie-bolts 32) are designed for bending to the desired curvature the leather sheet preliminarily shaped to the cross-sectional area shown in Fig. 7. As soon as such leather sheet, which is marked 33, has been thus bent, and preferably after it has been somewhat set to the curvature desired (as by dampening the same before subjection to thepress and by leaving the same in the press for a drying-out period) a cutting therefrom may be taken as indicated at 330. in Fig. 11. As will be seen best from Fig. 10, the press of Figs. 9 and 10 may be so constructed that, while the shaped leather sheet 33 is within the same, the cutting 33a may conveniently be made; it being noted that the shaping members 27 and 28 extend laterally of the press beyond the frame-members 29 and 30. As also shown clearly in Fig. 10, the leather sheet 33 may be extended somewhat beyond the shaping members 27 and 28, to permit the cutting 33a to be taken off, say between the lines 33' and 33". Referring finally in this connection to Fig. 12, representing as aforesaid a power press, this press may be used as a prelimi nary, subsequent or substitute former, if used at all, for giving the desired curvature to the leather sheet 33 previously shaped pursuant to the principles mentioned in discussing Figs. 6, '7 and 8. This press of Fig. 12 or an equivalent may be found useful in handling exceedingly stiff leather sheets where the same are made use of. Also, as to this press of Fig. 12, it will be noted that the male and female shaping members or blocks 27? and 28 thereof, respectively carried by the table 29' and rain 30, are detachably so carried, being held in place solely against lateral shift and hence slidably removable from table and ram along the lengths of the dovetail joints indicated at 34 and 35. One advantage of such a construction is that only a single power press need be installed; it merely being necessary to provide, in addition to the illustrated members 2'7 and 28 designed for curving properly the leather sheet 33, other male and female shaping members for curving properly the other leather sheets to be bent.

Another convenient manner of obtaining and employing actual leather pieces as hereinabove indicated, is to proceed as follows:

Referring to Figs. 13 and 14, a press or vise, in the present case shown as one to be manually tightened up by wing-nuts 35 on tie-bolts 36 joining top and bottom frame-members 3'7 and 38, may be made use of to simultaneously and coactionally bend a complete plurality of leather sheets individually previously shaped to crosssectional areas corresponding to the different lift developments of Fig.3 say pursuant to the principles mentioned in discussing Figs. 6, '7 and 8, thereby to bend such sheets from an assemblage such as shown in l3 tothe assemblage shown in Fig. 14; this latter assemblage reproducing, due to the facts that the contour of the undersurface of a top former 39 corresponds with the curvature of the line 2011 of Fig. 3 and that the upper surface of a bottom former 40 corresponds with the curvatureof the line 20.2 of Fig. 3, the complete lift development pattern of Fig. 3 (except o the lines 25F of Fig. 3). These lines 25F, however, may later readily be located at 25F in Fig. 14; as will be described in a moment. In order to facilitate proper piling up of the leather sheets of Fig. 13 on the shaping member or former 4G, and to hole said leather sheets approximately to the intended pile or stack, thepress is desirably provided with a central standard or rod 41 on which e successive leather sheets added may be strung one after another; these sheets having properly located notches or holes 42 for taking the rod and set back some distance from the edges of the sheets to be exposed as in Fig. 14.

Said rod is suitably anchored at its lower end in frame-member 37 as indicated at 43, and is threaded over its upper length to take a nut 44 to be preliminarily screwed down tight on the topmost layer or sheet of leather while all such sheets are being held or readjusted by hand to arrange all their just indicated edges in substantially the same plane parallel to the front of the press. When said nut has thus been tightened, the top frame-member 33 is mounted on the press, and the wing-nuts 35 are tightened; it being noted that said frame-member is provided with a hole 45 for accommodating, during said final clamping down of the leather sheets, the upper end portion of rod 41 and also nut 44.

Then, as will generally benecessary or desirable, the composite leather-area made up of the end-edges of the clamped leather sheets as shown in Fig. 14, may be subjected to a finishing operation to smooth the same off to the desired extent; which operation will preferably include grinding, buffing and polishing steps to set up a hi hly smooth and glossy appearance such as is characteristic of workmanship around the rotundity of an actual leather-lift heel.

Adverting to the lines 25F of Fig. 14, these may be readily set in place; as by measurem nts taken from the lift-development pattern of Fig. 3, and applying, as by scribing, said lines directly to the composite leather-area aforesaid, or by forming, on a stencil, an opening having said lines constitute the side boundaries thereof, with the top boundary of said opening corresponding to the line 20g of Fig. 3 and the bottom boundary thereof corresponding to the line 202 of Fig. 3. Such a stencil, which is not shown, but the presence of which may be taken to be indicated in Fig. 14 by the dot-and-dash lines 25F and the undersurface 20y of the former 39 and the upper surface 202' of the former 40, may be secured in position over the front of the press in such manner that the lines of its opening are in accurate registry with the dot-and-dash lines and the surfaces last-mentioned.

Where such a stencil isthus employed, the leather-area exposed through the stencil opening will be seen to constitute a pattern including a plane development of the rotund surface of the particular heel intended to be covered; with this pattern made up of siinilitudes of the various lifts as finally finished around an actual leatherlift heel; and with said pattern generated by the aid of the pattern of Fig. 3, but over another plane area than the plane area of Fig. 3. It will further be noted that here said similitudes are not merely such, but, in addition, are absolutely true leather-lift reproductions.

To mention another of the many possible ways of carrying out the invention, even where the same is worked by the aid of a press adapted to act simultaneously in regard to a plurality of shaped leather sheets as hereinabove described in connection with Figs. 13 and 14, the aforesaid stencil may be dispensed with. Instead, the leather sheets as clamped together in Fig. 14 may be given a suitable out, say an eighth of an inch deep, along each of the lines 25F, and then a cut may be taken across and parallel to the face of the clamped-together leather sheets. The thereby cut off leather strips may be then reassembled, over the pattern of Fig. 3, or over another suitable substantially uniplanar surface, as

over a sheet of cardboard, plywood or the like, and after being properly arranged in edge to edge relation to reproduce said pattern these strips may be suitably secured in place, asby gluing.

When, according to any of the foregoing or other ways of c rrying out the invention, a pattern corresponr. ig or substantially corresponding to 3 is completed in the sense that the same is made up of actual leather pieces or strips, or is completed in the sense that there are added thereto, in any manner, as by the hand an eye of an artist as aforesaid, markings suggestive of the characteristic grainings and/or and/or shadings of leather lifts as exposed around an actual leather-lift heel, the thus completed pattern is transferred to a sheet of a suitable flexible material and to the surface of said sheet which is to be outermost or innermost on the foundation heel for which said sheet is designed to act as a cover, according as the sheet is opaque or substantially transparent, as leather or celluloid.

Such transfer may be accomplished in any suitable manner, even (possibly) by the hand and eye of an artist; but desirably by some photomechanical or other mechanical or partially mechanical process. In the present case, and in accordance with present preference, such transfer may be assumed to be made with the aid of photolithography. In other words, since in most cases it will be desired to fabricate a plurality and possibly a great plurality of such covers, preferably some sort of a printing or duplicating process will be em loyed in connection with the transfer; such a printing or duplicating process, for instance, as electrotypy, photogravure, rotogravure, heliotypy, autotypy, etched-plate, wood-cut printing or the like.

One satisfactory manner of making the transfer is to print directly onto a sheet of the material of which the cover is to be made, or onto a film or the like previously laid over the face of said sheet which is to receive the pattern including the leather-lift similitudes; this film of a suitable material having the properties of high flexibility, high tenacity to said sheet, and high clingability to the pattern received thereby. Such a film has been found desirable because of the porous or compartive sponginess of a sheet of thin leather; and such a leather sheet is pref-' erably one of the materials from which the cover for the foundation heel may be made. Where said cover is of leather, I have found that exceedingly satisfactory results are obtained when the teaching of U. S. Patent No. 1,609,500 to Terlinden is followed by applying such film as a film or layer of a celluloid or nitrocellulose lacquer. Another material of which I have found it desirable in certain cases to construct the cover, is sheet celluloid.

Another satisfactory manner of making the transfer to the sheet of cover material, whatever it be, particularly where photolithography is employed for the transfer, is to print, not directly onto the cover material or onto a special film or coating thereon as just described, but to provide a decalcomania or transfer picture carrying as its imprint said pattern, and then, either immediately or later, to transfer such decalco mania to the cover material, as by heat and pressure as also taught by said Patent No, 1,509,- 500, whether or not the cover material has been previously coated with a special film or layer of celluloid or nitrocellulose lacquer or an equiva-' lent.

colorings Such a leather or celluloid cover may readily be temporarily softened, as is recommended, to facilitate smoothing the same tightly over the rotundity of the foundation heel to which it is to be applied, and in such manner that the liftsimilitudes thereon will properly run around the heel, as will be seen from 5 and 15. If such cover is of leather, it may thus be temporarily softened dampening the leather. If such covering is of celluloid, instead of water a bath including alcohol may be used. It has been found that in either case, that of a leather cover and that of a celluloid cover thus temporarily softened, or, rather, made abnormally flexible Without liability to deleterious stretch, the main part of the cover, intended to be laid tight and close against the rot'undity of the foundation heel, may easily be thus laid, and without distortion or on; and if held to thatlayuntil the water 01 the alcohol or the like evaporated, will be given a distinct set to the heel rotundity. The same set, fiat against the other surfaces of the heel, will be imparted to the crimped over portions 25a, 25b, 25c and 25d, particularly where the cover is of celluloid, A suitable glue 'or other adhesive is recommended, however, especially in the case of a leather or imitation-leather (as one of facedtextile material) cover, and particularly to secure such crimpedover portions to the foundation heel.

Referring finally to Fig. 15, this shows one manner in which a wooden or like foundation heel covered according to the invention at the rotundity thereof, may have its other surfaces covered in the finished shoe, Said heel, 22", after having had its cover 25 applied thereto, may be built into the shoe in a manner familiar in the art, as, for instance, by splitting at 46' a sole 4e and nesting in such split an upper forwardly projecting h el part 25'. The bottom of the heel may be completed by a leather or rubber lift 4'7. The breast of the heel may be faced over by a sheet 48 of flexible material, as leather or celluloid, and securely anchored in place, as by gluing or other adhesive use. In order that the heel when thus completed shall be a good imitation of an actual leather-lift heel whatever he the point from which it viewed, it is recommended that the sheet li carry, pursuant to the principles of the invention as hereinabove set forth, siinilitudes of leather lifts as they would be seen at the breast of an actual leather-lift heel. These similitudes, if desired to be reproduced from actual leather-section originals, may be reproduced from pattern made up, for instance, from leather pieces or strips set up in or obtained from the press of Fig. i l as hereinabove explained, except that the clamped-together leather sheets may be of uniform thickness from end to end of each and none of such sheets need be bent or curved. Desirably, the breast-sheet 48 will so carry lift-separation lines, and will be so applied over the crimped over portions 250 (Fig. 5) that the 'ft-siinilitudes on such sheet 48 will apparently constitute smooth continuations of the lift-similitudes on the cover 25 running around the rotundity of the heel.

Considerable particularities of description, as to materials, dimensions, capacities, utilities and preferences, may have been herein indulged in, but it will be understood that these statements are not in any way to be taken as definitive or delimitative of the invention. That is to say, it is intended that all matter contained in the jury to the details of the lift similitudes thereabove description or shown in the accompanying drawings shall be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

It is also to be understood that the language contained in the following claims is intended to cover all the generic and specific features of the invention herein described, and all statements of the scope of the invention which, as a matter of language, might be said to fall therebetween.

In other words, the scope of protection contemplated is to be taken solely from the appended claims, interpreted, in accordance with the definitions hereinabove expressly or impliedly incorporated, as broadly as is consistent with the prior art.

I claim:

1. The method of providing a cover for Wooden and other heels than those built up of a plurality of leather lifts such cover for-giving the heel covered thereby an appearance realistically suggesting that said heel is actually built up of a plurality of leather 1lfl3S,-Whl0h involves creating a plane development of a rotund surface of an actual leather-lift heel by providing a plurality of leather strips each cut from a leather sheet covered thereby an appearance realistically suggesting that said heel is actually built up of a plurality of leather lifts,which involves creating a plane development of a rotund surface of an actual leather-lift heel by shaping a plurality of leather pieces and arranging said pieces in edge to edge relation so that they individually display the cross-sectional grain of the leather substantially as it is exposed in an actual leatherlift heel and so that they together constitute said plane development; and transferring said plane development by the aid of a photomechanical process to a sheet material.

3. A cover for Wood heels comprising a sheet of heel covering material, a transfer film adhesively united to the surface of said sheet and bearing substantially a reproduction of the developed sides and rounded rear end of a built up leather heel, said transfer film showing the grain of the leather and the edges of the heel lifts in their usual relationship to each other.

4. That improvement in methods of making wood heel covers which consists in applying to a sheet of material suitable for a heel cover a decalcomania transfer film bearing substantially a reproduction of the developed sides and rounded rear end of a built up leather heel, said film showing the edges of the lifts in their usual relationship to each other, and securing said transfer film firmly to said sheet.

5. A shoe heel covered on the sides and back with a sheet of leather having transferred thereon a decalcornania which causes the heel to have the appearance of one built up of numerous leather lifts.

FORD C. CLOSE. 

